Caernarfon

The shadow of Snowdon dominates everything here, but it's the medieval castle that steals the show. Caernarfon Castle's towering walls and angular towers rise dramatically from the Menai Strait, creating one of Wales' most striking silhouettes. The town itself wraps around this UNESCO World Heritage site with a proper sense of purpose - this isn't some sleepy tourist trap.

Docod Y Bont feels properly Welsh. Conversations flow in both languages, the pubs serve decent bitter, and the Saturday market brings locals down from the surrounding hills. The narrow streets beyond the castle walls have character without being precious about it.

Llanberis sits just six miles southeast, gateway to Snowdon and home to the National Slate Museum. The Snowdon Mountain Railway chugs up from here, though the more interesting story lies in the massive Dinorwic Slate Quarry that carved terraces into the mountainside. Llyn Padarn stretches below the quarry, its dark waters reflecting the scarred cliffs above.

Driving takes 20 minutes from Bangor, less if the A4086 is clear. The train from London involves changes at Chester and Bangor - a proper trek but worth it if you're not rushing. Anglesey lies across the Menai Bridge, barely ten minutes away.

Staying at one of the parks around Llanberis puts you right in hiking country. Bryn Gloch Caravan & Camping Park sits close to the mountain railway, while Riverside Camping offers easy access to Parc Gwledig Padarn. From either, Caernarfon's shops and restaurants are a short drive when you need civilization after a day on the fells.