Barnard Castle

Medieval ruins crown a rocky bluff above the River Tees, while cobbled streets wind past antique shops and tearooms that haven't changed much since Victorian times. Barnard Castle feels like a proper market town that's resisted the march of chain stores - the Wednesday market still draws farmers from across Teesdale.

The castle itself dominates everything. Built by the Balliols in the 12th century, it's a cracking ruin with views that stretch across the Yorkshire Dales. Below, the town clusters around a triangular market square where Georgian townhouses rub shoulders with Tudor timber frames.

Venture beyond the town and you're into some of Durham's finest walking country. White Hill and the Shoulder of Mutton offer proper fell walking, while Egglesburn Wood provides gentler rambles through ancient oak and birch. Archaeological enthusiasts will find plenty to explore - cup marked rocks and cairnfields dot the surrounding moors, along with the site of an old stone circle that speaks to Bronze Age settlers who knew a good spot when they saw one.

Reaching Barnard Castle requires a bit of effort - the nearest railway station is at Darlington, about 20 miles east. Most visitors drive up the A66 from the A1, following the Tees valley through increasingly wild countryside. The journey's well worth it though, especially if you're staying at one of the holiday parks dotted around the area. They make an excellent base for exploring Teesdale's network of bridleways and ancient tracks that crisscross the fells between here and the Yorkshire border.