Wooler

The Cheviot Hills tower above this market town like sleeping giants, their rounded summits promising proper hill walking just minutes from the high street. Wooler sits snug in the foothills, a working town that's somehow escaped the worst of tourism's sugar-coating while remaining the go-to base for tackling Northumberland's wildest landscapes.

Yeavering Bell Hillfort dominates the southern horizon - a massive Iron Age settlement perched on what locals still call the most distinctive hill in the Cheviots. The climb's a bit of a slog, but the views stretch clear to the Scottish borders on a decent day. Closer to town, Harehope Hill offers gentler walking, while serious hikers head for the likes of Goatscrag and West Hill.

History buffs will find plenty to poke around. The Ad Gefrin Plaque marks where Anglo-Saxon kings once held court, though there's precious little to see beyond an information board. More rewarding is the hunt for ancient rock art at Routin Linn, where Bronze Age carvings still mark the stones after 4,000 years.

Fenton Centre gives families something different - a working farm with trails that actually teach you about Cheviot sheep rather than just letting you pet them. It's refreshingly honest about rural life.

Getting here means the A697 from either Newcastle (45 minutes) or Edinburgh (90 minutes). The town's compact enough to walk, though you'll want a car for the hills. Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense - Wooler's the kind of place where you spend daylight hours on the fells and evenings in the Red Lion, planning tomorrow's route over a proper pint.