Alnwick

Two massive castles dominate the skyline here, and you can spot them from miles around. Alnwick pulls off that rare trick of being properly historic without feeling like a museum piece - the town centre hums with independent shops and cafes, while tour groups queue up for the Harry Potter connection at Alnwick Castle.

The castle itself is theatrical in the best possible way. Those towers and battlements look like they've been lifted straight from a storybook, which explains why it's doubled for Hogwarts in the films. But beyond the Hollywood glamour, this is a working ducal seat with spectacular State Rooms and the most ambitious tree house you'll ever see.

Alnwick Garden deserves a full afternoon. The Grand Cascade alone is worth the admission, but it's the Poison Garden that really gets people talking. Deadly nightshade and ricin plants lurk behind locked gates - guided tours only, naturally.

Just down the road, the Northumberland coast unfolds in all its wild glory. Embleton and Newton Links stretch for miles, backed by dunes where you might spot seals hauled out on the rocks. Football Hole Beach sounds distinctly unglamorous but offers proper solitude, while Embleton Quarry Nature Reserve provides cracking birdwatching.

The A1 runs right past Alnwick, making it dead easy to reach from anywhere south. Newcastle's about 35 miles down the road. Staying at one of the nearby coastal parks puts you perfectly placed for both castle exploring and beach rambling - Northumberland Coast Camp gets consistently good reviews and sits right between the two.