Craster

Kippers hang in the smoke house windows like amber curtains, filling this tiny fishing village with their distinctive aroma. Craster feels properly untouched by time - a handful of stone cottages clustered around a working harbour where cobles still bob between the weathered pier walls.

The village earned its reputation through L. Robson & Sons, who've been smoking herring here since 1906. Their kippers are legendary across the Northeast, though the smokehouse itself is surprisingly modest for such fame. Beyond the harbour walls, Craster Memorial Harbour serves as a poignant reminder of local fishermen lost at sea.

Dunstanburgh Castle dominates the clifftops to the north - a proper ruin that's worth the half-hour coastal walk. The fortress sits on a volcanic outcrop, its broken towers still commanding respect after 700 years. On clear days, the views stretch to the Farne Islands and Holy Island.

South of the village, Howick Sands offers a different perspective - a sweeping beach that's gloriously empty most days. The walk there takes you past St Peter the Fisherman, a simple church that's been serving this community since medieval times. Muckle Carr, meanwhile, provides excellent birdwatching if you fancy something quieter.

Getting here means following narrow lanes from the A1 at Alnwick - about eight miles of winding countryside. It's proper remote, which is exactly the point. The Northumberland Coast Camp nearby makes perfect sense for exploring this stretch of Heritage Coast without the daily drive from town. You'll want several days to properly appreciate both the castle walks and the excellent pub grub at the Jolly Fisherman.