Haverfordwest

Castle walls rise above the Western Cleddau, marking Haverfordwest as Pembrokeshire's proper market town. This isn't some tourist confection - it's a working Welsh town that happens to sit at the heart of one of Britain's most spectacular counties. The medieval streets climb steeply from the river, with independent shops and proper Welsh pubs tucked between Georgian townhouses.

Wiston Castle perches dramatically on its motte just outside town, offering cracking views across the Preseli Hills. It's a quick drive but feels worlds away from the high street bustle. For families, Clerkenhill Adventure Farm keeps the kids entertained with its Frizbee Golf Course - not your typical farm attraction.

The real draw here is access to everything Pembrokeshire offers. Llys y Frân Country Park spreads across 320 acres just north of town, with reservoir walks and mountain bike trails through Long Wood and Pickle Wood. Proper countryside, this - rolling hills dotted with ancient churches like St Martin of Tours in nearby Clarbeston.

Pembroke's just 15 minutes south by car, putting you within striking distance of the coast path and Tenby's beaches. The A40 makes getting here straightforward from Cardiff or Swansea, though Clarbeston Road station offers a more relaxed rail approach.

Staying at one of the holiday parks around Haverfordwest makes perfect sense. You're central enough for day trips to St Davids or the Gower, yet surrounded by enough woodland walks and castle ruins to keep you busy between coastal adventures. The town itself provides all the practicalities - decent supermarkets, cafés that know how to make a proper Welsh cake, and pubs where locals actually drink.