Milford Haven

Oil tankers glide past like sleeping giants as you watch from the waterfront, their hulks dwarfing the pleasure boats bobbing in Britain's third-largest natural harbour. This working port town has proper character - none of that tourist sheen you'll find elsewhere along the Pembrokeshire coast, just honest maritime grit mixed with stunning waterway views.

The deep-water harbour made Milford Haven wealthy once, and you can still feel that industrial heritage walking the town centre. These days it's quieter, though the marina brings life to the waterfront. West Martello Tower stands sentinel over the Haven, a reminder of when French invasion seemed likely rather than French tourists.

Surrounding countryside offers proper escape routes. Johnston Park provides gentle woodland walks, while Westfield Pill Nature Reserve attracts birdwatchers who know their stuff. The curious can hunt down the Isambard Kingdom Brunel historic site - the great engineer left his mark here too. For something completely different, Green Lane Maize Maze promises to get the kids thoroughly lost come summer.

Getting here's straightforward enough - the A4076 runs straight down from Haverfordwest, about 30 minutes by car. Johnston station handles local rail services, though most visitors drive. Tenby and St Davids pull the crowds, leaving this corner of Pembrokeshire relatively peaceful.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense for exploring west Pembrokeshire without the premium prices. You're close enough for harbour walks and far enough out for countryside peace. The real Pembrokeshire coast starts just south - rugged cliffs and proper beaches rather than harbourside promenades.