St Davids

Britain's smallest city sits in a shallow valley, its purple sandstone cathedral spire barely visible until you're almost upon it. This is deliberate - early Christians built low to avoid Viking raiders sailing past on the horizon. St Davids feels more like a village than a city, with just one main street and a population that could fit in a small stadium.

The magnificent St Davids Cathedral dominates everything, its Norman arches and wooden ceiling creating one of Wales' most atmospheric sacred spaces. Next door, the ruins of St Davids Bishop's Palace tell stories of medieval power and wealth. Both sit in a grassy hollow called the Glyn, protected from Atlantic gales.

Art galleries seem to outnumber shops here. Goat Street Gallery showcases local artists, while the New Street Art Gallery doubles as a B&B for those wanting to sleep surrounded by paintings. Oriel y Parc serves as the national park's visitor centre, with exhibitions that change seasonally.

Dr Beynon's Bug Farm offers something completely different - tarantulas, stick insects and the chance to sample cricket flour cookies. It's oddly compelling, especially for families.

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path runs right past the city, with spectacular clifftop walks in both directions. Thousand Islands Expeditions runs boat trips to spot seals, dolphins and puffins around nearby Ramsey Island. The nearest proper town is Haverfordwest, about 16 miles inland.

Staying at one of the local camping spots like Pembrokeshire Meadows puts you right in the heart of the coastal national park. You're perfectly placed for cathedral visits, coastal walks and island-hopping adventures, all from Britain's most unlikely city.