Alnwick

Two castles dominate this market town - one a Hollywood star, the other a proper fortress still doing its day job. Alnwick Castle draws the crowds with its Harry Potter connections and Downton Abbey filming locations, but the real magic lies in wandering the cobbled streets where locals still pop into centuries-old shops. The town centre feels refreshingly authentic, especially on market days when farmers drive down from the Cheviot Hills to sell everything from fresh eggs to hand-knitted jumpers.

From the ramparts, the Northumbrian countryside unfolds in layers of green. Hepburn Crags rise dramatically to the west, while Great Wood offers proper walking territory just a few miles out. The wild cattle at Chillingham make for an extraordinary day out - these aren't your average Highland cows, but genuinely feral beasts that have roamed the same parkland for 800 years.

Getting here couldn't be easier. The A1 runs right past, making Alnwick perfectly accessible from both Newcastle (45 minutes south) and Edinburgh (90 minutes north). The town sits at the heart of some of England's most unspoiled countryside, where ancient hillforts like Jenny's Lantern dot the landscape and forests stretch for miles without a single gift shop in sight.

Basing yourself at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough to nip into town for supplies or a decent meal, yet surrounded by walking territory that ranges from gentle woodland strolls through Fore Rigg Wood to more challenging climbs up Bewick Hill. It's proper border country - wild, historic, and still largely undiscovered by the tour bus brigade.