Haverfordwest

The ancient peaks of Carn Llidi and Carn Treliwyd loom over this corner of Pembrokeshire like weathered sentinels, their rocky outcrops offering proper views across the Irish Sea. Haverfordwest sits as the county town, a working place that doesn't try too hard to charm visitors but has its own honest appeal.

Downrog Common sprawls across the landscape, a wild heathland where you'll find more sheep than people on most days. It's brilliant walking country if you don't mind getting your boots muddy. The Roman history runs deep here - Menapia Roman Station reminds you that this coastline has been important for nearly two millennia.

Archaeology buffs will love the Carn Llidi Chambered Tomb, one of those ancient burial sites that makes you wonder what life was like 4,000 years ago. Meanwhile, St Davids City Golf Club offers a more sedate way to spend an afternoon, though the coastal winds can make club selection interesting.

Getting here is straightforward enough - the A40 runs straight through Pembrokeshire, and Haverfordwest railway station connects to the main Cardiff line. It's about 45 minutes from Carmarthen if you're driving from the east.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense for exploring this bit of Wales. Pembrokeshire Meadows Camping has solid reviews and puts you within striking distance of both the coast and the inland peaks. The landscape changes quickly here - you can walk from prehistoric burial chambers to windswept commons to golf greens in a single morning. That variety, plus the lack of tourist crowds that plague other parts of Pembrokeshire, makes it worth considering as your base.