Haverfordwest

Standing at the crossroads of Pembrokeshire's ancient trade routes, this market town carries the weight of centuries in its Norman castle ruins and Georgian streets. Haverfordwest proper might feel workaday at first glance, but it's the gateway to some of Wales' most spectacular coastal scenery.

The real treasures lie scattered along the rugged coastline to the west. St. Non's Chapel and Well marks where Wales' patron saint was supposedly born, while the dramatic St. Non's Cliffs offer cracking views across St Bride's Bay. Below, Caerfai Beach provides a proper stretch of sand when the tide's out - though it's a bit of a scramble down the cliff path.

Rookie mistake: many visitors rush straight through to St Davids. But the coast between here and Britain's smallest city deserves proper exploration. Porth Clais Harbour sits in a narrow creek where lime kilns once burned day and night. The Solva Lime Kilns tell a similar industrial story, remnants of when this coast buzzed with maritime trade.

Caves punctuate the limestone cliffs - Ogof Mwn and Ogof y Ffos require local knowledge to find safely. Better to stick to the marked coastal paths that reveal hidden coves and archaeological sites like the solitary Standing Stone.

Getting here means the A40 from Carmarthen, then local roads that narrow considerably as you approach the coast. Staying at one of the nearby parks, particularly Pembrokeshire Meadows Camping with its solid reputation, puts you within striking distance of both the Pembrokeshire Coast Path and St Davids' cathedral city charm. The positioning works brilliantly - far enough from the crowds, close enough for proper exploration of this magnificent coastline.