Haverfordwest

Tuesday afternoon finds the high street surprisingly quiet, which says something about this county town that feels caught between its medieval past and modern realities. Haverfordwest sits inland from Pembrokeshire's famous coast, a proper working town where locals go about their business while tourists hurtle past towards the beaches.

The castle ruins tell the real story here - this was once the unofficial capital of Little England Beyond Wales, and you can still feel that English influence in the architecture. It's not chocolate box Wales, but there's something honest about a place that doesn't try too hard to be pretty.

What makes Haverfordwest brilliant is its position. You're 20 minutes from St Davids, where the cathedral city charm meets spectacular coasteering at Celtic Quest. The Blue Lagoon at Abereiddi is a short drive west - that dramatic slate quarry turned swimming hole that looks like something from another planet. Saint David's Church anchors the tiny city, while Abereiddi Tower stands sentinel over the coast.

Getting here couldn't be easier. The A40 brings you straight from Carmarthen, and there's a decent train service if you're coming from further afield. It's the kind of place where you stock up on supplies before heading to more remote corners of the peninsula.

Staying at one of the holiday parks nearby makes perfect sense. Pembrokeshire Meadows Camping has proper reviews and sits well for exploring both the coastline and the Preseli Hills. You're close enough to nip into town for fish and chips, far enough out to escape the traffic that can clog the narrow roads in summer. Base yourself here and you've got the whole of south Pembrokeshire at your fingertips.