Narberth

Welsh wool shops and proper cheese counters still line the high street here, though Narberth's reinvented itself as Pembrokeshire's foodie capital without losing its market town soul. The weekly Thursday market draws proper crowds, and you'll spot more artisan bakeries than chain stores - a refreshing change from most small towns these days.

Wander beyond the town centre and you're quickly into ancient woodland. Scotland Wood spreads across rolling hills just minutes from the shops, while Lawrenny Wood offers cracking walks down towards the Daugleddau estuary. The landscape here is proper Pembrokeshire - not the dramatic coastal stuff, but gentler countryside dotted with medieval churches like St Caradoc's at Lawrenny and the atmospheric ruins of Lawrenny Castle perched above the water.

Capel Deri Vineyard produces surprisingly decent Welsh wine if you fancy a tasting, though most visitors are here for the walking. The Daugleddau forms a massive tidal inlet system - think Norfolk Broads but Welsh and wilder. Conaga Dingle and Foxenhole Plantation provide woodland trails that rarely see crowds, even in summer.

Getting here's straightforward enough - the A40 runs right past, and it's only twenty minutes from Haverfordwest if you need proper shops or transport links. The train stops at Narberth station, though services aren't frequent.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense for exploring this corner of Pembrokeshire. You're close enough to nip into town for dinner at one of the excellent restaurants, but positioned to explore both the wooded inland areas and the coast. It's a proper base camp for seeing the county beyond the obvious tourist spots.