Cwm Mawr

The walk up Cwm Mawr rewards you with views across Ceredigion that shift dramatically depending on which direction you're facing. It's a proper hill rather than a mountain - nothing that demands technical gear or a dawn start - but the climb is steep enough to earn those vistas across the valleys toward Aberystwyth and beyond.

This works best for walkers who actually enjoy walking, not families hoping for a gentle stroll. The terrain is rough underfoot in places and the path isn't manicured. You'll see bog cotton in the valleys and get a real sense of upland Wales without the crowds you'd find on Snowdon or Pen y Ghent. The summit itself is a bit anticlimactic - it's moorland rather than a dramatic peak - but the approach and descent matter more than standing on top.

Allow three to four hours for a round trip depending on your pace. No facilities on the hill itself, so sort your water and snacks before you head out. The weather changes fast up here; I'd check the forecast properly rather than relying on what looked reasonable in Aberystwyth.

If you're based at Brynllwyd Glamping or Woodlands Caravan Park nearby, this works as a morning walk with time for lunch back at the site. It's the kind of walk that reveals the backbone of mid-Wales rather than delivering postcard moments, which is exactly what makes it worth doing.