Scarborough

Two castles perch on opposite cliffs, telling a thousand years of stories while waves crash against the rocks below. This is where Yorkshire's coast gets properly dramatic - all sweeping bays, clifftop walks, and that particular blend of Victorian grandeur and seaside grit that makes Scarborough so compelling.

South Bay spreads out like a crescent moon, backed by the grand hotels and spa buildings that made this England's first seaside resort. The harbour sits snugly between the headlands, fishing boats bobbing alongside pleasure craft. North Bay feels wilder, less manicured, with the Open Air Theatre carved into the cliff face and Peasholm Park's boating lake providing a gentler alternative to the crashing waves.

Cayton Bay, just south of town, offers something completely different. These golden sands stretch for miles when the tide's out, backed by grassy dunes rather than promenades. It's where locals go to escape the summer crowds, and Cayton Sands remains one of Yorkshire's finest beaches - though you'll need to tackle a steep path down the cliffs.

The town itself runs on two levels. Up on the clifftops, Victorian terraces and modern shopping areas sprawl inland. Down at sea level, the old town clusters around the harbour, all narrow streets and fish and chip shops that have been serving locals for generations.

Trains from Leeds and York reach Scarborough direct, making it surprisingly accessible from inland Yorkshire. Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks - particularly around Cayton or inland towards Lebberston - gives you the best of both worlds: easy access to the resort's attractions while keeping you close to the quieter stretches of coast and the Yorkshire Wolds beyond.