Pwllheli

The salty tang hits you before you even see the sea. This Gwynedd seaside town spreads along Cardigan Bay like a Welsh answer to a proper British resort - minus the crowds and commercial frenzy that plague English coastal counterparts.

Pwllheli wears its market town heritage well. The high street runs parallel to the shore, lined with independent shops that actually serve locals rather than tourists clutching novelty tea towels. Come Wednesday for the weekly market - it's been running since medieval times and still draws farmers from across the Llŷn Peninsula.

Black Rock Sands stretches for miles south of town. Unlike those pebble nightmares you'll find elsewhere along the Welsh coast, this is proper golden sand where you can actually drive onto the beach. Families love it, but it never feels overpacked.

Climbing Moelypenmaen rewards with sweeping views across the peninsula. It's a decent hike rather than a gentle stroll, but the panorama takes in Snowdonia's peaks on clear days. Down in town, Holy Cross Church anchors the old quarter with its medieval stonework, while Bryn Tanni nature reserve offers quieter walking through ancient woodland.

Getting here means the A497 from Porthmadog or Caernarfon - both about 20 minutes away. The train line from Machynlleth connects through to Birmingham, making it surprisingly accessible from the Midlands.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough to pop into town for supplies or fish and chips, yet far enough out to feel properly away from it all. Haven Hafan y Môr Holiday Park sits right on the coast, while Black Rock Sands Touring and Camping Park puts you within walking distance of that famous beach.