Penrith

Red sandstone buildings line the market square, giving this Cumbrian town a warm, honey-coloured glow that belies its frontier past. Penrith sits at a proper crossroads - the gateway to the Lakes for southerners, but equally a jumping-off point for the wilder fells of the Eden Valley and North Pennines.

The town centre has that lived-in feel you get in proper market towns. Tuesday's still market day, though the livestock trading that made this place has long moved on. What remains is a compact centre where you can sort yourself out with everything from walking boots to decent coffee. The ruins of Penrith Castle, a 14th-century red sandstone fortress, loom over the town centre - more atmospheric than impressive, but worth the short walk.

Just outside town, Brocavum Roman Fort reminds you this has been a strategic spot for centuries. The Romans knew a good position when they saw one. Adventure Golf provides family entertainment when the weather turns, while The Boathouse offers something more active for those who fancy a paddle.

Get yourself up to The Countess Pillar for a bit of local oddity - a 17th-century monument that's become something of a landmark. The Red Barn Gallery showcases local artists if you're after something cultural.

From here, you're 20 minutes from Ullswater, half an hour from the northern Lakes proper. The M6 runs right past, making this brilliantly accessible from Manchester or Glasgow. Staying at one of the holiday parks around Penrith makes perfect sense - you can explore Hadrian's Wall to the north, the Lakes to the south, and the Eden Valley's gentler charms in between. It's camping with options, basically.