Appleby-in-Westmorland

Ancient castle ruins overlook the River Eden as it curves through this forgotten corner of Westmorland. Appleby-in-Westmorland feels like somewhere time forgot - not in a twee way, but genuinely. The main street climbs steeply from the river to the castle keep, lined with Georgian houses that have seen better days but retain their dignity.

This is proper fell country. High Pike dominates the eastern skyline, while the tumulus near St. Leonard's reminds you that people have been settling here for millennia. The town itself can feel a bit sleepy outside market day, but that's rather the point. You're here for the surrounding landscape, not urban excitement.

Walking territory doesn't get much better. Great Ewe Fell offers serious hiking for those after a challenge, while gentler souls can tackle Beacon Hill for cracking views across the Eden Valley. The train station at Warcop connects you to the wider world, though you might find yourself reluctant to leave.

Reach Appleby via the A66, which cuts across the northern Pennines. It's roughly equidistant from Penrith and Barnard Castle - about 20 minutes either way. The town makes a proper base for exploring the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, with fells like Black Hill and Rain Hill within easy striking distance.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes complete sense. You get the countryside on your doorstep while being close enough to pop into town for supplies or a pub lunch. Wild Rose Holiday Park sits particularly well for accessing both the Eden Valley and the higher fells beyond.