Lochgilphead

Three thousand years of Scottish history wash up against this quiet Argyll town like driftwood on Loch Fyne's shores. Lochgilphead sits at the head of the loch with a no-nonsense air, its wide streets and sturdy buildings speaking to Victorian confidence rather than Highland romance.

Dunadd Fort commands the landscape to the south - this ancient hilltop stronghold once crowned the kings of Dalriada. It's a proper climb to the top, but worth every step for views across the Moine Mhor and the satisfaction of standing where Celtic royalty once ruled. The surrounding countryside bristles with archaeological treasures: Ballymeanoch Henge, Ri Cruin Cairn, and the mysterious cup and ring carvings at Baluachraig that predate Stonehenge.

Knapdale's wild country stretches north and west. The Beaver Trail from the visitor centre offers glimpses of Scotland's newest residents busy at work in their watery kingdom. Lochs scatter the landscape like dropped coins - Lochan an Torrnalaich, Loch Long John, and dozens more reflecting the ever-changing Argyll sky.

Duntrune Castle guards the narrow entrance to Loch Crinan, its medieval walls still intact after seven centuries. Getting there means a lovely drive through farming country that feels properly remote despite being just minutes from town.

The drive from Glasgow takes about two and a half hours via the A82 and A83 - hardly a quick trip, but Argyll rewards patience. Staying at one of the nearby parks puts you right in the thick of this ancient landscape, with enough lochs and archaeological sites to fill a fortnight of exploration.