Pen y Bannau

The walk up Pen y Bannau is proper tough going, but the payoff from the summit is genuine. You're looking at a 1,568-footer that sits inland from Aberystwyth, commanding views across Cardigan Bay and back towards the Cambrian Mountains. On a clear day the visibility is remarkable - you can pick out the coastal curve all the way down towards Ceredigion.

It's a walker's mountain, no question. The approach is steep and the paths can be boggy in places, so proper boots are essential. Allow three to four hours return trip depending on your fitness and where you start from. The summit itself is windswept and exposed, which means weather changes fast up there. I'd avoid coming in low cloud or heavy rain - the views are the whole point, and you'll see nothing but grey.

This isn't a casual stroll for the family, though teenagers who can handle a proper hike will get the sense of real achievement. The solitude is striking compared to more popular Welsh peaks. You'll encounter far fewer people than you would scrambling around Snowdonia.

If you're basing yourself at Brynllwyd Glamping, which sits six miles away near Aberystwyth, Pen y Bannau makes a genuine day out. Combine it with a walk down to the coast afterwards and you've got a proper Welsh mountain experience without the tourist crowds. Bring a map and a compass - phone signal up here is patchy at best.