Strathcarron

Mountains rise from deep lochs like ancient guardians, their Gaelic names whispering stories of clan battles and Highland legends. Strathcarron sits at the heart of some of Scotland's most dramatic scenery, where the road from Inverness finally drops down into the wilds of Wester Ross.

This isn't your typical Highland tourist trap. The village exists mainly as a railway junction - the Kyle Line still chugs through daily - but what surrounds it is absolutely spectacular. Sgùrr Mòr dominates the skyline to the south, while Beinn Damh's rocky flanks catch the morning light beautifully. Proper hill walkers know this area well; the peaks around here offer some of the best scrambling in Scotland without the Skye crowds.

Lochs pepper the landscape like scattered mirrors. Loch a' Bhealaich makes for a decent afternoon walk, though Lochan Fada requires more commitment - and waterproofs. The Open Air Church near Shieldaig adds an unexpected spiritual dimension to any ramble, its simple stone walls open to the Highland sky.

Getting here takes effort. Kyle of Lochalsh is your nearest proper town, about 20 miles east, and the single-track roads demand patience. But that's rather the point - this corner of the Highlands hasn't been sanitised for mass tourism.

Staying at Shieldaig Camping & Cabins puts you right in the thick of it. You can tackle Ben Shieldaig before breakfast, explore the memorial to David John Barclay Major, or simply sit with a whisky watching the light change on Tom na Gruagaich. The railway provides an escape route when the weather closes in, but most visitors find themselves extending their stay. The mountains have that effect on people.