Ullapool

Fishing boats bob in the harbour while seabirds wheel overhead - this is the Scottish Highlands at their most authentic. Ullapool sits on the shores of Loch Broom like a slice of Scandinavia, all whitewashed cottages and working quayside. The town serves as the gateway to the Summer Isles and the wild Coigach peninsula beyond.

Wander down to the harbour and you'll find CalMac ferries heading to Lewis, their horns echoing off the surrounding hills. The real magic happens when you venture beyond the town centre. Meall an Fheadain offers proper hill walking for those wanting to stretch their legs, while the coastline reveals a string of beaches with names that roll off the tongue like poetry - Mol Mòr, Mol Bheag, and the wonderfully named Tràigh an t-Sean Bhaile.

North towards Achiltibuie, the landscape becomes increasingly dramatic. The Achiltibuie War Memorial sits in countryside that feels like the edge of the world, with views across to the Summer Isles on clear days. Back towards Ullapool, peaks like Meall a' Chaisteil and Creag na Coille Dorcha provide serious hiking for those properly equipped.

Getting here requires commitment - it's a good two-hour drive from Inverness along the A835. But that journey through Glen Achall and past Loch Glascarnoch is half the appeal. Staying at one of the coastal campsites means you can explore both the town's excellent seafood restaurants and the wild country beyond without the daily trek back to civilisation. The combination of working harbour, dramatic peaks, and those empty beaches makes this corner of Wester Ross feel genuinely remote.