Inverness

The wild hills of Glen Moriston rise like sleeping giants above deep, dark lochs where red deer drink at dawn. This isn't the manicured Highlands of tourist postcards - this is proper wilderness, where ancient Gaelic names still cling to every peak and pool. Inverness itself sits at the heart of it all, though you're really here for what lies beyond.

Loch nan Eun reflects the brooding bulk of Glas-bheinn Mhòr on still mornings. The walking here is superb if you know what you're about. Sròn na Muic offers cracking views across the entire glen, while the cluster of peaks around Carn Mor provides proper hill walking for those with decent boots and a map.

Water dominates everything. Loch an t Sionnaich stretches like a silver ribbon through the valley, while smaller tarns like Loch na Faoileige catch the light between the heather. Each has its own character - some brooding and deep, others shallow and reedy where grouse call from the banks.

The Invermoriston War Memorial stands quietly by the roadside, a reminder that even these remote glens have their histories. Getting here means a proper drive from Fort William or Inverness proper, winding through some of Scotland's most dramatic scenery.

Staying at one of the holiday parks dotted around Loch Ness makes perfect sense. You're close enough to the famous loch for a look, but far enough into the hills to escape the crowds. Places like Loch Ness Highland Resort put you right in the thick of it - wake up to mist over the water and spend your days tramping the hills that few tourists ever see.