Stratford-upon-Avon

Two million visitors descend on this market town each year, but step off the tourist trail and you'll find a surprisingly relaxed place with proper character beyond the Bard. The River Avon winds lazily through town, lined with swans that seem utterly unfazed by the constant stream of selfie-sticks.

Shakespeare's New Place draws the crowds, naturally, but Magic Alley offers a quieter glimpse into the town's theatrical heritage. The Harvard House sits elegantly on the high street - a reminder that this town's influence stretched far beyond England's borders. Swan Theatre puts on cracking productions if you fancy something more intimate than the main RSC venue.

Wander down to the Shakespeare Memorial Fountain and Clock Tower for decent views without the queues. His Mind's Eye gallery showcases local artists, while the Community Garden provides a peaceful escape when the tour groups become overwhelming.

Beyond the Tudor facades, the Warwickshire countryside unfolds in gentle hills and ancient woodlands. Proper walking country, with footpaths threading through villages that haven't changed much in centuries. The Cotswolds edge creeps in from the west, bringing honey-coloured stone and rolling pastures.

Getting here couldn't be easier - regular trains from London Marylebone take just over two hours, while the M40 delivers you practically to the door. Birmingham's only 25 miles north if you need a proper shopping fix.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense. You'll dodge the town centre parking nightmare and morning coach queues, yet still reach Anne Hathaway's cottage on foot. Evening strolls along the Avon become infinitely more enjoyable without day-trippers jostling for river views.