Porthmadog

Steam locomotives still whistle through this Victorian harbour town, their carriages packed with tourists heading into Snowdonia's heart. Porthmadog might look modest today, but it was once Wales' slate capital - those elegant Georgian terraces lining the high street were built on Welsh slate money shipped to roof half the world.

The real draw here is the Ffestiniog Railway. From Porthmadog station, these narrow-gauge beauties chug 13 miles through proper mountain scenery to Blaenau Ffestiniog. Worth every penny, especially if you catch one of the steam engines rather than the diesels. The Welsh Highland Railway also starts here, offering an even more dramatic route north through the Snowdonia peaks.

Morfa Harlech stretches for miles south of town - a proper beach when the tide's out, though it can get blowy. The dunes here are massive, and on clear days you'll spot Harlech Castle perched on its rock across Tremadog Bay. Less crowded than Barmouth, more atmospheric than Pwllheli.

Several peaks rise within walking distance if you fancy a proper hike. Pen Y Garn offers cracking views over the Glaslyn estuary, while the various Ynys summits - Cerrig-Duon, Hir, and Galch among them - provide decent scrambles without the Snowdon crowds. The Gorsedd Circle near town hints at the area's ancient past, though the Site of Roman Bath House takes you back even further.

Getting here is straightforward enough - the A487 runs right through town, connecting to the A470 for those coming from the Midlands. Staying at one of the nearby parks like Black Rock Sands or Garreg Goch puts you perfectly positioned for both the heritage railways and the coastal walks, with Snowdonia's southern peaks just a short drive away.