Kendal

Mintcake capital meets serious outdoor adventure. That's what you get in this gateway town to the Lake District proper, where outdoor gear shops line the high street and the scent of mint cake wafts from family-run factories that have been perfecting the stuff for generations. Kendal sits in a limestone valley, with the River Kent cutting through its centre and the Lakeland fells rising dramatically on all sides.

The town itself works hard for a living. Proper working folk live here, not just tourists, which gives it an authentic edge that touristy Windermere lacks. Scout Scar looms above the eastern edge, offering cracking views across the valley once you've made the climb. The limestone escarpment of Whitbarrow stretches to the south, managed by Forestry England and absolutely brilliant for a proper walk.

Getting here couldn't be easier - the M6 runs right past, and there's a decent train service from Manchester. Windermere is just 8 miles north, but staying at one of the parks around Kendal puts you perfectly placed for both the lakes and the quieter eastern fells. You can be at Windermere in 15 minutes, but return each evening to somewhere that doesn't charge London prices for a pint.

The surrounding hills - Bell Hill, Savin Hill, Cockpit Hill - aren't massive peaks, but they're proper little climbs that reward you with views across to the high fells. Mount Joy Farm houses galleries in its converted farm buildings, worth a look if the weather turns. This is Lakeland base camp done right.