Dorchester

Hardy's Wessex lives on in this Georgian market town that takes its literary heritage seriously. Dorchester feels properly lived-in rather than polished for tourists - the weekly markets still draw farmers from across the chalk downs, and you'll find more working pubs than gastropubs along the high street.

The surrounding countryside is classic Dorset at its finest. Rolling chalk hills stretch in every direction, crowned by ancient earthworks and threaded with footpaths that Hardy himself would recognise. Winfrith & Tadnoll Nature Reserve offers brilliant walking through heathland that feels genuinely wild, while the twin peaks of Blacknoll Hill and Whitcombe Hill provide cracking views across the Frome valley.

Moreton village, just east of town, holds one of Dorset's architectural surprises - St Nicholas church with its stunning engraved glass windows by Laurence Whistler. It's a bit of a trek from the centre, but well worth it for something completely unexpected in rural England.

Getting here couldn't be easier. Direct trains from London take just over two hours, while the A35 brings drivers straight through from the M3. Weymouth's just eight miles south if you fancy fish and chips by the sea.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense for exploring both the literary landscape and the genuine countryside beyond. Durdle Door Holiday Park puts you right on the Jurassic Coast, though the smaller sites around Crossways offer better access to the quieter walking country. Either way, you're ideally placed to discover a Dorset that hasn't been entirely tamed by the tourist trail.