Dolgellau

The mountains press in from all sides here, making Dolgellau feel like Wales has cupped you in its hands. This proper Welsh market town sits in a valley where the River Wnion meets the Afon Arran, surrounded by some of the most dramatic peaks in Snowdonia National Park. Dark stone buildings line the streets, built from the same granite that makes up Cadair Idris looming to the south.

Cadair Idris is the main event - this 893-metre giant offers one of Wales' most rewarding climbs, though it's a proper slog that'll test your legs. Legend says anyone who sleeps on its summit will wake up either a poet or a madman. The more sensible route up starts from the Minffordd Path car park.

Archaeology buffs should seek out the ruins of Cymer Abbey and Cymer Castle, both remnants of medieval power struggles. The abbey dates from 1198 and sits in peaceful farmland just outside town. Less peaceful is the mountain biking at Coed y Brenin Forest, where world-class trails wind through ancient oak and pine.

Getting here means following the A470 through increasingly wild country from either north or south. Barmouth lies 9 miles west if you fancy swapping peaks for sea air. The town itself has a good selection of outdoor shops and cafes - essential for refuelling between mountain adventures.

Basing yourself at Coed y Brenin Forest Camp makes perfect sense. You're right in the forest for early morning rides, yet still close enough to Dolgellau for supplies and that proper Welsh pub dinner you'll definitely need after a day on Cadair Idris.