Porth Swtan

Church Bay - that's what locals call it, though the Welsh name Porth Swtan sticks on the maps. It's a proper working beach on Anglesey's northwest coast, just a few miles from Holyhead, where fishing boats still launch and the sand genuinely shifts with the tides rather than sitting prettily for Instagram.

What you get here is raw coastal Wales. The beach itself curves between rocky outcrops, backed by low cliffs and moorland rather than caravan parks or chip shops. Rock pools dot the foreshore at low tide - excellent for kids wanting to hunt crabs and starfish for an hour or two, though the novelty wears off quickly if the weather turns. The water's cold enough to take your breath away, but swimmers and kayakers use it regularly. The real draw, though, is the fishing village feel. You'll see day boats and nets, genuine working harbour stuff that hasn't been tidied up for tourists.

It's the sort of beach that rewards a proper walk rather than a quick visit. The cliffs either side are worth exploring, and the coastal path links to other bits of Anglesey's northern shore. Weather matters hugely - on a grey day with a north wind, it's fairly bleak. Come when it's clear and you'll see why people bother with North Wales at all.

Stay at Pengraig or Llain Ffynnon if you're camping nearby - both within spitting distance. Porth Swtan works best as part of a wider beach-hopping loop, not as a destination in itself.