Settle

Steam trains thunder through this limestone market town twice daily, hauling crowds of tourists up the famous Settle-Carlisle line. But most visitors only glimpse Settle from carriage windows, missing a proper Yorkshire Dales gem that deserves more than a platform pause.

The cobbled market square feels authentically northern - none of that polished Cotswolds nonsense here. Local farmers still bring livestock to Tuesday markets, while The Museum of North Craven Life tells the story of this working community with proper grit. The Richard Whiteley Theatre hosts everything from amateur dramatics to touring productions, though frankly the real entertainment comes from watching fell walkers gear up outside the outdoor shops.

Settlers know the best views aren't from the station platform. Pikeber Hill and Hunters Hill offer cracking panoramas across Ribblesdale, while the gentler Millennium Garden provides a lovely spot for a brew and butty. Studio Vault and Gallery on the Green showcase local artists, though The Listening Gallery takes a more experimental approach that might not suit everyone's taste.

Giggleswick School Chapel dominates the skyline south of town - an impressive Victorian pile that's worth a look even if you're not keen on public schools. The 1597-98 Plague Stone near the market square marks grimmer times, when coins were left in vinegar to pay for goods without spreading disease.

Getting here without a car takes commitment. The train service is brilliant but infrequent - check times carefully or you'll be stuck for hours. By road, it's a proper drive from anywhere significant, though that's rather the point.

Camping nearby makes perfect sense. The surrounding countryside offers endless walking, and having a base means you can explore beyond the tourist hordes who pile off the Carlisle train for a quick photo before piling back on.