Keswick

The smell of wet fellside and wood smoke hangs in the air. Keswick sits at the northern edge of Derwentwater like a gateway to the wildest parts of the Lake District, where the peaks grow sharper and the crowds thin out considerably.

Skiddaw dominates the skyline here - that hulking great mass of slate and scree that draws walkers from across the globe. But locals know the real treats lie scattered across the northern fells. Latrigg offers the classic Keswick view without the leg-breaking climb, while Great Calva and its smaller sibling Little Calva provide proper wilderness walking for those who fancy a bit of solitude.

The town itself keeps things refreshingly real. Market day brings a proper buzz to the streets, and the Theatre by the Lake pulls in some cracking productions. Derwentwater's just a short stroll south, but venture north and you'll find yourself among the quieter peaks like Great Cockup and Ladies Table - names that never fail to raise a smile.

Walking aside, the area's packed with history. Castle How Hillfort sits brooding above the valley, a reminder that people have been scrapping over this landscape for millennia. Bank Wood and Wythop Woods offer gentler exploration when the weather turns properly grim.

Getting here's straightforward enough - the A66 runs right past, connecting Keswick to Penrith and the M6 beyond. Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough to nip into town for supplies or a proper meal, but far enough out to wake up to fell views rather than car parks. The northern fells don't get the attention of their southern cousins, which means more space to breathe and proper walking without the weekend crowds.