Ilfracombe

Victorian seaside grandeur meets rugged North Devon coast at this dramatic harbour town. Ilfracombe clings to clifftops with an almost Mediterranean intensity, its tiered terraces cascading down to a working port where fishing boats still bob alongside pleasure craft.

The town wears its history proudly. Walk the harbour arm and you'll find yourself face-to-face with Damien Hirst's towering bronze Verity, a 20-metre pregnant figure holding scales and sword - controversial when unveiled but now as much part of the scenery as the lighthouse. The old town's narrow streets wind past independent shops and proper fish and chip joints, while the promenade offers that classic seaside experience without the corporate blandness of bigger resorts.

Outside town, the landscape opens into some of Devon's most spectacular coastal walking. The South West Coast Path stretches in both directions, offering everything from gentle harbour strolls to challenging cliff-top hikes. Nearby Combe Martin provides a quieter counterpoint - its elongated village street running inland for nearly two miles, flanked by the fascinating Combe Martin Museum and the remnants of medieval silver mining at the Combe Martin Silver Mine Society.

Getting here requires a bit of commitment - it's roughly 11 miles from Barnstaple, the nearest proper town with rail links. But that relative isolation is part of the appeal.

Staying at one of the local holiday parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough for evening harbour walks and morning swims, yet far enough from the summer crowds to properly unwind. The surrounding countryside offers everything from Hidden Valley's tranquil pitches to glamping options that let you wake up to those cracking Devon views without sacrificing comfort.