Pen Mynydd-du

The walk up Pen Mynydd-du is properly steep but the effort pays off quickly. You're looking at a modest peak - just 471 metres - but from the top you get views across the Snowdonia massif that rival hills twice its height. It's the perspective that counts here. The path climbs through woodland and rough grassland, taking the best part of an hour depending on fitness and how often you stop to look back at Porthmadog sprawling below. It's a straightforward route rather than a scramble, which means families with older kids can manage it without too much grief. Allow two hours for the round trip if you're not rushing, longer if you want to sit about and actually enjoy the view. There's no visitor centre or facilities at the summit - bring water and something to eat. The mountain doesn't care much for bad weather, so pick a clear day. This works brilliantly as a half-day excursion if you're based at any of the caravan parks nearby - Black Rock Sands is closest at under two miles away - and it beats spending another hour on a beach if the tide's out. Autumn is lovely for this walk, when the light turns golden and you're not fighting hordes of summer tourists. Winter can be grim and slippery, so check conditions first. Worth doing once if you're in the area for a week, though it's not the sort of outing that'll stick in your memory for years.