Mynydd Cwmgerwyn

The walk up Mynydd Cwmgerwyn rewards you with one of those rare views that actually matches the hype. It's a proper peak above Dolgellau, sitting just under 2,600 feet, and the route from the village itself takes a couple of hours if you're moving at a steady pace.

What strikes you first is how green everything is. You're climbing through moorland and rough grassland, with the Cader Idris range coming into view as you gain height. The summit itself isn't dramatic - no sharp rock formations or scrambling involved - but that's almost the point. You get up there without faffing about, and the panorama spreads out properly: Dolgellau below, the Mawddach Estuary cutting through to Barmouth, and on a clear day the coast opens up beyond.

This is walkers' territory, genuinely. Families with older kids would manage it without complaint, but smaller legs might find it long for what's essentially a steady slog. History types won't find much to latch onto - it's landscape pure and simple.

Go on a clear afternoon when the light's warm and the shadows are just starting to lengthen. The path can be boggy after rain, so pick your moment. It's free, obviously - it's a Welsh mountain.

Stay at Llwyn yr Helm Caravan and Camping Park, five miles away near Dolgellau, and you've got your base sorted. Combine this with a wander round the town itself and you've had a proper day in Snowdonia without the crowds that pile onto the bigger peaks.