Moel Cors-y-garnedd

The walk up Moel Cors-y-garnedd is a proper slog from Dolgellau, but it's the kind of effort that pays off once you're up there. This isn't a dramatic peak - no sharp ridges or scrambles - just a steady grind through moorland that keeps revealing slightly better views as you climb. You'll cross open grassland and bog, spot a few ancient stone walls, and eventually reach a summit that feels genuinely isolated despite being only a couple of hours from civilisation.

Walkers will get far more from this than casual strollers. It's not a circuit many people bother with - the reward is solitude rather than scenery, though on clear days you can see across to Cadair Idris. Allow three to four hours there and back depending on fitness. The ground is wet underfoot most of the year, so good boots are essential rather than optional.

Best visited in late spring or autumn when the weather is at least halfway civilised. Winter comes early here and the cloud cover can be relentless. If you're camping at Llwyn yr Helm just up the road, this makes for a decent morning adventure before a pub lunch in town. Torrent Walk is closer if you're bunkhouse-based. It's free, always open, and the sort of walk where you'll barely see another soul - which some people find rewarding and others find a bit bleak. Depends what you're after.