St Albans

Roman streets still run beneath this cathedral city, where 2,000 years of history layer themselves like geological strata. St Albans feels distinctly market-town English - think proper pubs with timber frames and a high street that actually bustles on Saturdays. The towering Norman cathedral dominates the skyline from miles around.

Verulamium Park spreads along the River Ver, where Roman walls poke through manicured grass like ancient bones. The theatre ruins here are among Britain's best-preserved, and you can still trace the old watling Street through the city centre. It's properly atmospheric stuff, especially on misty autumn mornings.

For something completely different, the de Havilland Aircraft Museum celebrates the area's aviation heritage - the Geoffrey de Havilland gallery houses some cracking vintage aircraft including the elegant DH.88 Comet. The Hatfield Bunker offers a fascinating glimpse into Cold War paranoia, though it's a bit of a trek out to Hatfield proper.

Trestle Arts Base keeps the cultural scene lively with experimental theatre, while galleries like Mountain and Altocumulus showcase contemporary art in converted Victorian buildings. The city's compact enough to walk everywhere, with the cathedral close and Roman sites within easy strolling distance.

Getting here couldn't be simpler - it's just 20 minutes by train from London St Pancras. The M25 and A1 both pass nearby, making St Albans an obvious base for exploring Hertfordshire's rolling countryside. Several holiday parks dot the surrounding villages, including Commons Wood and Home Farm Glamping, putting you within striking distance of both Roman history and easy London access.