Ross-on-Wye

Ancient market charter grants gave this Herefordshire town its swagger back in 1138, and Ross still carries itself with that medieval confidence today. The red sandstone church of St Mary the Virgin dominates the hilltop skyline, while below, narrow streets wind down towards the Wye's muddy banks where salmon once ran thick enough to club with sticks.

Galleries punch above their weight here. The Phoenix showcases local artists alongside touring exhibitions, while Made In Ross Gallery champions Herefordshire makers. Salmon of the Wye celebrates the river's fishing heritage - though you're more likely to spot canoeists than anglers these days. Dennis Potter's Memorial Wall pays tribute to the controversial playwright who grew up in nearby Forest of Dean.

Vicarage Wood offers proper countryside walks without leaving town boundaries. The swimming pool's a bit dated but does the job on rainy afternoons.

Market House stands bang in the town centre, its 17th-century arches still sheltering weekly traders every Thursday. The Plague Cross marks grimmer times when disease stalked these streets. War memorials dot the town - Falklands and Korean conflicts remembered alongside the usual Great War roll calls.

From here, the Wye Valley unfolds in both directions. Symonds Yat's dramatic gorge lies eight miles downstream, while Hereford Cathedral sits a comfortable half-hour drive north. The Welsh border runs tantalizingly close - Monmouth's just across the water.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense. Ross sits dead centre for exploring both the Wye Valley's wooded gorges and Herefordshire's hop-scented countryside. You're close enough to walk into town for dinner, far enough out to wake up to birdsong rather than traffic.