Looe

Two fishing harbours face each other across a narrow river estuary where the Looe River meets the English Channel. East Looe does the heavy lifting with shops, restaurants and the main beach, while West Looe keeps things quieter - though both sides buzz with holidaymakers come summer.

The harbour still works properly. Fishing boats unload their catch most mornings, and the smell of salt and seaweed hangs thick in the air. Walking the narrow streets feels like stepping back decades - Victorian terraces climb steeply from the waterfront, and the Old Guildhall Museum tells tales of smugglers who once ruled these waters.

Plaidy Beach offers the best swimming and sunbathing, a lovely stretch of sand just east of town that's well worth the short coastal walk. For something completely different, The Monkey Sanctuary up at Murrayton provides an unexpected treat - woolly monkeys rescued from captivity now swing through purpose-built enclosures overlooking the valley.

History buffs should seek out Buddle, an ancient settlement site, and Williams's Shaft, remnants of the area's copper mining past. St Martin church in East Looe dates back centuries and offers cracking views across the estuary from its hillside perch.

Getting here means navigating Cornwall's winding A-roads - the A387 from Liskeard is your best bet if coming by car. The branch railway line from Liskeard still runs, though services can be patchy outside summer months. Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks like Tencreek or Killigarth Manor puts you within easy reach of both Looe's twin towns and the spectacular South Cornwall coast path that winds eastward towards Polperro.