Helensburgh

Three railway stations serve this Victorian seaside town, and you'll understand why when you see how the hillsides cascade down to the Clyde estuary. Helensburgh feels like it was built for commuters who wanted proper sea air - elegant terraced houses climb the slopes above a waterfront that's all about boats and broad views across to the Highlands.

The town centre runs parallel to the shore, but it's the upper reaches that really sing. From Helensburgh Upper station, the West Highland Line begins its journey to Mallaig, while down at sea level, Craigendoran and Helensburgh Central keep things connected to Glasgow. Between these transport hubs lies a town that's weathered well - Georgian and Victorian architecture that speaks of confident prosperity.

Charles Rennie Mackintosh left his mark here at Hill House, though you'll also find the John Logie Baird Bust celebrating the television pioneer's local connection. The Henry Bell Obelisk down by the pier honours another innovator - the man behind the Comet steamship.

Walk the esplanade and you'll see why this stretch of water attracted the well-heeled. Across the Gare Loch, hills rise dramatically, while boat traffic keeps the foreshore lively. Blairvadach Sailing and Outdoor Centre makes the most of these waters, and Kilcreggan Pier extends the sailing possibilities.

For higher ground, Craigownie Castle offers ruins with attitude, while peaks like Dunrod Hill and Clach MacKenny provide proper walking above the town. Mill Dam and the various reservoirs - Lindowan and Auchengaich among them - add freshwater interest to a landscape that's fundamentally about the meeting of mountain and sea.

Staying at nearby Loch Lomond Retreat puts you within striking distance of both Helensburgh's seaside charms and the loch's more famous attractions. The town's three stations mean day trips are dead easy, but there's enough character here to justify lingering.