Haverfordwest

The ancient castle ruins brooding over the Cleddau estuary tell you everything about this county town's strategic past. Haverfordwest isn't trying to be pretty - it's a proper working Welsh town that happens to sit at the heart of one of Britain's most spectacular coastal regions. The medieval streets climb steeply from the old quay, where cargo boats once brought goods from across Europe.

What makes this place special is its position as your gateway to Pembrokeshire's extraordinary coastline. Within a half-hour drive, you'll find some of Wales' finest beaches and coastal walks. The town itself rewards a wander - the castle perched above the river offers cracking views across the valley, while the Saturday market still draws farmers from across the county.

From here, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path beckons in both directions. Drive west and you'll hit the golden sands of Broad Haven and Little Haven within 20 minutes. Head south for the dramatic cliffs around Dale and the sheltered waters of Milford Haven. The countryside between is dotted with ancient churches like Talbenny Church and All Saints at Walton West, reminders of this area's deep Christian heritage.

Staying at one of the coastal parks nearby gives you the best of both worlds. You're close enough to nip into town for supplies or a proper pub lunch, but right on the doorstep of some of Britain's most unspoilt coastline. The A40 brings you straight here from Carmarthen, making it an easy drive from most of Wales.