Bury Saint Edmunds

The abbey ruins rise like broken teeth from manicured lawns, reminding you that this Suffolk market town was once one of England's most important pilgrimage destinations. Medieval streets fan out from the cathedral precinct, lined with Georgian townhouses that speak of later prosperity built on brewing and farming.

Bury's compact centre rewards wandering. The Cathedral of St James and St Edmund towers over the Abbey Gardens, where locals walk their dogs among the Norman remains. You'll find proper independent shops along the Cornhill and Buttermarket - none of that clone town nonsense here. The Theatre Royal claims to be Britain's only surviving Regency playhouse, and it's worth catching a show if you can.

Venture beyond the ring road and Suffolk's gentle countryside unfolds. West Stow Country Park protects an Anglo-Saxon village reconstruction, while Ampton Water offers decent fishing and walking. The village signs scattered around - at Fornham All Saints, Hengrave, and Great Livermere - might seem quaint tourist fodder, but they're beautifully crafted pieces of local art.

Getting here's straightforward enough. The A14 brings you from Cambridge in 40 minutes, while trains from London Liverpool Street take just under two hours. Norwich lies an hour north if you fancy a bigger city fix.

Staying at one of the holiday parks dotted around the area gives you proper countryside peace after exploring the town. West Stow Pods puts you right next to the country park, while the various camping spots near Thetford Forest let you combine historical sightseeing with forest walks. Much better than fighting for town centre parking every morning.