Saint John the Baptist, Melmerby

The stone church stands alone on the fell above Melmerby, not far from Carlisle, and there's something rather moving about finding it up there. Saint John the Baptist is a proper working parish church, relatively modest in scale but with genuine character - the sort of place that rewards the walk rather than just a casual drive-by.

Inside, it's straightforward and honest. Solid stone walls, clear glass letting the Cumbrian light pour through. You get a real sense of centuries of worship compressed into this single building. The fell setting means the view out across the landscape matters as much as what's in the pews - which isn't a criticism. If anything, it makes the whole experience more complete.

Walkers tackling the Eden Valley will find this a natural stop-off point. It's not a destination you'd drive miles for specifically, but if you're based at High Hall Farm Campsite just down the road, adding an hour's ramble up to the church would be time well spent. The approach itself is half the appeal. Families with older kids who don't mind a bit of fell walking will get more from it than those expecting dramatic carved tombs or architectural fireworks.

Allow an hour if you're combining it with the surrounding landscape. Go when the weather's decent - there's no shelter up there and the wind can be sharp. Free to visit, as is standard for parish churches. It's the kind of place that sticks with you more for its setting than any single feature, but that's rather the point.