Pen Llithrig y Wrach

The walk up Pen Llithrig y Wrach isn't long, but it's relentless. Starting from near Penmaenmawr, you're climbing steeply through woodland before emerging onto open moorland with views that stretch across Conwy to Snowdonia. The summit itself - that's the witch's stone, according to local legend - sits at a modest 1,546 feet, but the perspective makes it feel far grander.

This is proper walker territory. You're looking at a good couple of hours for the round trip depending on fitness, and the path can be boggy in wet weather. Families with young children might find it a bit much, though determined ten-year-olds will manage it fine. The real reward isn't a trig point or a café - it's the sudden drop in your stomach when the view opens up and you realise Penmaenmawr and the coast are suddenly far below you.

There's no visitor infrastructure to speak of, so bring water and a packed lunch. The best light is late afternoon when you're looking west towards the mountains. Summer is fine, but go mid-week if you can - the car park fills quickly on weekends.

If you're staying at Maenan Abbey or Erw Glas nearby, this makes an excellent morning outing before exploring the broader Conwy Valley. It's the kind of walk that reminds you why Wales deserves its reputation - wild, accessible, and refreshingly free of commercialism.