Old St Stephen's Church, Fylingdales

The churchyard sits on the edge of Fylingdales moor, about three miles south of Whitby, and it's properly atmospheric - especially if you catch it on an overcast afternoon when the North Sea wind whips across the headland. Old St Stephen's is a modest stone church that dates back to medieval times, though it's been rebuilt and patched up more than once over the centuries. You'll find it's less about the building itself (it's small, simple, no great architectural flourishes) and more about the setting and the sense of stepping back into village life as it was.

The churchyard is the real draw here. Wandering among the gravestones - some so weathered you can barely read the names - gives you a genuine feel for the people who lived and died in this remote corner of Yorkshire. It's the sort of place that appeals to history types and walkers more than families with small children, unless they're the sort who enjoy graveyards and old cemeteries. The views across the moor aren't dramatic, but they're genuine North Yorkshire moorland - bleak and rather beautiful in an understated way.

It's free to visit and takes maybe 20 minutes to look around properly. Don't expect signage or facilities. If you're staying at Whitby Cliff Top Touring Park or camped nearby, it's a decent short walk to stretch your legs and see something that most Whitby visitors miss entirely. Go in the late afternoon when the light's softer and the place feels even more remote.