Llyn Crafnant

The drive up to Llyn Crafnant from Llanrwst winds through proper Welsh countryside - steep lanes that make you wonder if you're going the right way, then suddenly you're there. This mountain lake sits at 300 metres, hemmed in by coniferous forest and bare hillside. It's remote without being inaccessible, which is exactly what makes it work.

There's a decent loop walk around the water - takes most people ninety minutes to two hours without rushing. The track is straightforward, though the northern section can be boggy after rain. What strikes you immediately is how quiet it is. No commercialisation, no tearooms, just water and hills. Families with young walkers do well here; it's challenging enough to feel like an achievement but not so brutal that anyone ends up in tears.

Photographers should come when the light's low - early morning or late afternoon lifts the place from pleasant to genuinely striking. Winter's lovely too if you don't mind cold hands. Summer weekends can draw a modest crowd, but never anything approaching busy.

The lake itself is for fishing if that's your thing (permits required, mind). Swimming isn't really encouraged, and frankly the water looks properly cold year-round.

If you're staying at Maenan Abbey Caravan Park nearby, this makes a cracking half-day outing. It's the sort of place that rewards a proper walk rather than a quick stop - go prepared for weather and you'll understand why locals keep coming back.