Lan Fawr

The walk up Lan Fawr is proper hard work, but that's rather the point. This 603-metre peak sits above Tregaron in the Cambrian Mountains, and getting to the summit means real effort - steep moorland terrain, no groomed paths, just you and the bog. The reward is the reason people bother: on a clear day, views stretch across mid-Wales in all directions, with glimpses toward Snowdonia if you squint northward.

This is strictly a walkers' hill. Scrambling experience helps because you'll need decent boots and map-reading skills. Families with young children will struggle unless the kids are properly mountain-trained. History types won't find much up here beyond old sheep tracks, but if you're into wild landscape and honest Welsh uplands, this delivers. Allow three to four hours for a round trip from the main access point near Tregaron.

The terrain stays boggy even after dry spells, so waterproof trousers aren't optional. Start early - the exposed position means weather can turn fast. Spring through early autumn beats winter walking here; March onwards the ground firms slightly. There's no admission charge, naturally, and no facilities at the summit.

If you're based at Cambrian Mountains Glamping and Camping nearby, Lan Fawr works as a proper day expedition rather than a gentle stroll. It's the sort of walk you'll either love for its uncompromising character or resent for its difficulty. Nothing twee about it.