Esgair Ganol

The walk up Esgair Ganol rewards you with proper views across the Cambrian Mountains - the sort of landscape that reminds you why Mid Wales is quietly brilliant. From the summit at 2,223 feet, you're looking out over moorland and valleys that stretch for miles, with the Elan Valley visible on clear days. It's not a dramatic peak in the Alpine sense, but there's something honest about it.

The ascent from Llanwrtyd Wells takes a couple of hours at a steady pace. The path is well-trodden moorland walking - nothing technical, but the weather changes fast up here, so come prepared. Spring and early summer are genuinely lovely; winter can be grim. You'll see grouse, possibly red kites if you're lucky, and on a good day the visibility stretches into England.

This is proper walking territory, not a tourist tick-box. Families with older kids who don't mind bog and wind will manage it fine; the under-tens might find it a slog without something specific to aim for. Allow three to four hours for the round trip depending on fitness and how long you linger.

Stay at Welsh Glamping or Elan Oaks - both are within easy reach and rated well - and Esgair Ganol becomes part of a wider exploration of the Elan Valley area. It's the kind of walk where you'll see hardly anyone else, which some people love and others find a bit isolating. If you want that feeling of being out there, it's worth the trip.