Esgair Dderw

The walk up Esgair Dderw takes you straight into proper Mid Wales moorland - rolling, open, and honest. At 570 metres, it's not going to knacker you, but the climb is steady and the exposed ridge at the top catches the wind something fierce. On a clear day (and they do happen in Powys, though you need patience), the views stretch across the Elan Valley and beyond. The peak itself is fairly bare - no café, no visitor centre, just tussocky grass and the kind of silence that makes you remember why you came.

This is a hike for people who like walking more than destination-hunting. The terrain is rough in places, proper bog in others, so decent boots aren't optional. Allow a couple of hours for a steady ascent and descent from Rhayader, which sits just 5 kilometres away and serves as your base for supplies and a decent meal afterwards. In summer the heather comes through, which freshens up the whole experience. Winter visibility can be dodgy, so pick your day.

Stay at Wyeside Caravan & Camping Park just down the road - it's well-kept and close enough that you're not spending half the morning driving. Elan Oaks and The Pines offer equally solid alternatives if you prefer something with more facilities. The real appeal here isn't the peak itself but the walk through genuine Welsh hill country without the crowds you'd get on Pen y Ghent or Snowdon. Worth doing if you're in the area; not worth a special trip on its own.