Cwm Wood

Cwm Wood is a proper old-growth forest that sits just outside Narberth in Pembrokeshire, the sort of place where the canopy gets so thick you half expect to bump into a badger round the next bend. It's genuine woodland - not a manicured country estate affair - with a network of paths that wind through beech and oak, moss-covered boulders, and the occasional stream trickling down the slopes.

The walk itself demands decent boots. It's muddy most of the year, hilly in places, and the paths aren't always obvious, which is rather the appeal if you like a bit of navigation without the crowds. Most people allow two to three hours for a proper explore, though you can dip in and out with shorter loops depending on energy levels. Families with older kids will manage fine; younger ones might find the uneven ground tiresome.

Historically it's been worked for timber - you'll spot the remnants of old forestry management if you know what to look for. These days it's left largely to itself, which has let the undergrowth thicken into something genuinely wild feeling. There's no visitor centre or facilities on site, so come prepared with water and a map.

If you're based at one of the nearby parks - Bluestone Resort is closest at under three miles - Cwm Wood makes a solid half-day outing that breaks up the usual seaside routine. It's free to access, properly Welsh in atmosphere, and exactly the sort of place you remember long after the beach shots blur together.