Cnoc nan Dubh Leitire

The walk up Cnoc nan Dubh Leitire is proper wild - a modest hill by Scottish standards, but don't let that fool you. From the Isle of Mull side, the climb rewards you with views across the Sound of Mull that most tourists never bother to chase. You're looking at rough moorland underfoot, occasional boggy patches, and weather that changes faster than you can say 'Scottish Highlands'.

This isn't a manicured visitor experience. There's no café, no signposted loop walk, no ranger talks. It's just you, the heather, and fairly relentless wind. Allow two to three hours return depending on your fitness and how long you want to linger at the summit. Go in decent weather - cloud sits heavy here most of the year, and you'll see almost nothing if the mist rolls in.

Families with older kids who enjoy proper walking will get something from it. Young children will probably find it tedious. The payoff is the silence and the genuine sense of reaching somewhere most visitors to Mull don't bother with.

If you're staying at Island Pods nearby, it's an excellent half-day outing that breaks up the longer trail days. Free, naturally - there's no infrastructure to maintain. Just wear good boots, bring waterproofs, and check the forecast first. Worth the effort for walkers who like their hills honest and their views earned.